The number one pest to look out for in cannabis is the spider mite. They are not insects, but a type of spider. They have 8 legs when fully grown, tiny bodies and no attennae.
For inexperienced farmers they are tough to identify with the naked eye. They like warm, dry environments, preferably over 85 degrees. This means they're usually an inside pest, but they do occur outside from time to time.
What To Expect
They spend most of their time underneath the leaves. The eggs are laid on the plants by the females. They can hatch within a few days or a couple weeks.
The 6 legged larva feeds for a short time then molts into an 8 legged nymph. The nymph stage also feeds on the plant before molting into the adult mite. With a fast life cycle they are able to reproduce quickly and infestations can explode.
They suck sap and other nutrients out of the plant to feed. Bleeding off the nutrients can actually kill the plant if it's let go. This can lead to a total crop loss if left unattended.
How You Know You Have Spider Mites
Spider mites leave some telltale signs. They leave white or yellow dots all over the tops of the leaves. They leave spider webs behind as well.
You can sometimes detect webs by misting the plants, although once an infestation is well underway the webs are big.If left untreated the leaves dry up and fall off. Eggs appear as tiny white dots under the leaves. You can also see them with a magnifying glass, or sometimes with the naked eye.
How To Treat Spider Mites
This pest does a lot of damage to cannabis. It's really important to treat them as soon as an infestation is found. If you discover them before they get out of control you can remove them by hand. This isn't always possible, and takes lots of effort.
Pesticide works more effectively. Its best to use multiple treatments to make sure you get rid of them. Apply the insecticide thouroughly, and get underneath the leaves. You don't want to spray insecticide on blooms, though.
3) You can try using the spider mite's natural enemy, Phytoseiulus persimilis, which is a predator mite. They can be bought through the mail from horticultural suppliers. If only one plant seems to be effected, take it out of the garden. Bag the plant so that the mites can't spread.
Soap and water solutions can work. A rubbing alcohol spray can also work. Miticides are effective, as are Pyrethrins. Pyrethrins are slighty toxic, but are not too bad for humans.
Preventing Spider Mites
The best approach is prevention. Don't let the environment get infected. Mites like dry and hot, so keep it wet and cool, relatively speaking -over 50% humidity and under 85 degrees. Mist the plants, or hang wet towels in the garden enclosure. Before you begin, sterilize everything that you're using. Keep the room clean, as well as your tools. Don't transfer pests to your garden from other gardens.
I hope that by sharing this information farmers will have a better grasp of spider mites and the damage they can create. Spider mites are quite destructive. Preventing infestations is the best way to go as it results in healthier crops and less pesticide use.
For inexperienced farmers they are tough to identify with the naked eye. They like warm, dry environments, preferably over 85 degrees. This means they're usually an inside pest, but they do occur outside from time to time.
What To Expect
They spend most of their time underneath the leaves. The eggs are laid on the plants by the females. They can hatch within a few days or a couple weeks.
The 6 legged larva feeds for a short time then molts into an 8 legged nymph. The nymph stage also feeds on the plant before molting into the adult mite. With a fast life cycle they are able to reproduce quickly and infestations can explode.
They suck sap and other nutrients out of the plant to feed. Bleeding off the nutrients can actually kill the plant if it's let go. This can lead to a total crop loss if left unattended.
How You Know You Have Spider Mites
Spider mites leave some telltale signs. They leave white or yellow dots all over the tops of the leaves. They leave spider webs behind as well.
You can sometimes detect webs by misting the plants, although once an infestation is well underway the webs are big.If left untreated the leaves dry up and fall off. Eggs appear as tiny white dots under the leaves. You can also see them with a magnifying glass, or sometimes with the naked eye.
How To Treat Spider Mites
This pest does a lot of damage to cannabis. It's really important to treat them as soon as an infestation is found. If you discover them before they get out of control you can remove them by hand. This isn't always possible, and takes lots of effort.
Pesticide works more effectively. Its best to use multiple treatments to make sure you get rid of them. Apply the insecticide thouroughly, and get underneath the leaves. You don't want to spray insecticide on blooms, though.
3) You can try using the spider mite's natural enemy, Phytoseiulus persimilis, which is a predator mite. They can be bought through the mail from horticultural suppliers. If only one plant seems to be effected, take it out of the garden. Bag the plant so that the mites can't spread.
Soap and water solutions can work. A rubbing alcohol spray can also work. Miticides are effective, as are Pyrethrins. Pyrethrins are slighty toxic, but are not too bad for humans.
Preventing Spider Mites
The best approach is prevention. Don't let the environment get infected. Mites like dry and hot, so keep it wet and cool, relatively speaking -over 50% humidity and under 85 degrees. Mist the plants, or hang wet towels in the garden enclosure. Before you begin, sterilize everything that you're using. Keep the room clean, as well as your tools. Don't transfer pests to your garden from other gardens.
I hope that by sharing this information farmers will have a better grasp of spider mites and the damage they can create. Spider mites are quite destructive. Preventing infestations is the best way to go as it results in healthier crops and less pesticide use.
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